Q:
Why should I replace my existing heating or air conditioning
system?
A: Today's systems are as much as 60% more efficient than
those systems manufactured as little as ten years ago. In
addition, if not properly maintained, wear and tear on a
system can reduce the actual or realized efficiency of the
system. If you are concerned about utility bills or are
faced with an expensive repair, you may want to consider
replacing your system rather than enduring another costly
season or paying to replace an expensive component. The
utility cost savings of a new unit may provide an attractive
return on your investment. If you plan on financing the
purchase, the monthly savings on your utility bill should
be considered when determining the actual monthly cost of
replacing a system. The offsetting savings may permit you
to purchase a more efficient system.
Q:
Do you offer any warranty on your products?
A:
Warranties are available for up to 10 years on New Systems.
For repair parts, we are the only local company that offers
a 5 year warranty.
Q:
How expensive are air conditioning and heat pump systems?
A: Many factors affect the cost of a heating or air conditioning
system, including the size of your home, the type and
condition of the ductwork installed and accessories you
might need such as a thermostat or an electronic air cleaner.
We have a complete range of systems and accessories available
to meet all your needs, including your financial ones!
We will be happy to assist you in finding the right system
to meet not only your comfort needs but also your household
budget.
Q:
How do I select the right heating/cooling system?
A: First, make sure the unit is properly sized. We will
provide a load calculation for your home and provide an
energy analysis to determine  operating
cost. Next, consider any comfort issues in the home. Some
products can reduce air stratification and uneven temperatures
from room to room. If you have allergies, an indoor unit
with an ECM motor will allow you to circulate the air
in your home continuously while filtering your household
air for about the same cost as operating a standard light
bulb.
Q:
What is involved in replacing an old system?
A: Aside from the placement of the new equipment, we will
inspect several items and make a determination of whether
or not these items need to be supplied or replaced. Some
of the items include: ductwork, insulation, refrigerant
piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate
piping, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain
pans and the evaporator coil.
Q:
How long can I expect a new system to last?
A: If you have annual safety & efficiency tune-ups
and service suggested for your unit, industry averages
suggest that an air conditioner should last 12-18 years
(costal applications may be less).
Q:
What are some preventative maintenance things I should
be aware of?
A: With the proper attention, heating and cooling systems
can keep you comfortable year-round. Heat pumps, oil-fired
furnaces need a yearly safety & efficiency tune-up.
A close inspection will uncover leaks, soot, rust, rot,
corroded electrical contacts and frayed wires. In furnace
(forced-air) systems, the inspection should also cover
the chimney, ductwork or pipes, dampers, blower or, registers
the fuel line and the gas meter or oil tank — as
well as every part of the furnace itself.
Next,
the system should be run through a full heating cycle
to ensure that it has plenty of combustion air and chimney
draft. Finally, cleaning the burner and heat exchanger
to remove soot and other gunk will prevent such buildup
from impeding smooth operation. For the burner, efficiency
hinges on adjusting the flame to the right size and color,
adjusting the flow of gas or changing the fuel filter
in an oil-fired system. A check of the heat pump should
include an inspection of the compressor, fan, indoor and
outdoor coils and refrigerant lines. Indoor and outdoor
coils should be cleaned, and the refrigerant pressure
should be checked. Major equipment manufactures require
at a minimum a yearly P.M. agreement.
Blower
Tuning up the distribution side of a forced-air system
starts with the blower. Blades should be cleaned and blower
motor checked to insure the unit isn't being overloaded.
Every accessible joint in the ductwork should be sealed
with mastic or UL-approved duct tapes. Any ducts that
run outside the heated space should be insulated.
Thermostat
While thermostats rarely fail outright, they can degrade
over time as mechanical parts stick or lose their calibration.
Older units will send faulty signals if they've been knocked
out of level or have dirty switches. To recalibrate an
older unit, use a wrench to adjust the nut on the back
of the mercury switch until it turns the system on and,
using a room thermometer, set it to the correct temperature.
Modern electronic thermostats, sealed at the factory to
keep out dust and grime, rarely need adjusting.
Filters
Most houses with forced-air furnaces have a standard furnace
filter made from loosely woven spun-glass fibers designed
to keep it and its ductwork clean. Unfortunately, they
don't improve indoor air quality. That takes a media filter,
which sits in between the main return duct and the blower
cabinet. Made of a deeply pleated, paper-like material,
media filters are at least seven times  better
than a standard filter at removing dust and other particles.
An upgrade to a pleated media filter will cleanse the
air of everything from insecticide dust to flu viruses.
Compressed, media filters are usually no wider than six
inches, but the pleated material can cover up to 75 square
feet when stretched out. This increased area of filtration
accounts for the filter's long life, which can exceed
two years. The only drawback to a media filter is its
tight weave, which can restrict a furnace's ability to
blow air through the house. To insure a steady, strong
airflow through the house, choose a filter that matches
your blower's capacity.
Duct
Cleaning
A maze of heating and air conditioning ducts runs inside
the walls and floors of 80 percent of American homes.
As the supply ducts blow air into the rooms, return ducts
inhale airborne dust and suck it back into the blower.
Add moisture to this mixture and you've got a breeding
ground for allergy-inducing molds, mites and bacteria.
Many filters commonly used today can't keep dust and debris
from streaming into the air and over time sizable accumulations
can form — think dust bunnies, but bigger.
To find out if your ducts need cleaning, pull off some
supply and return registers and take a look. If a new
furnace is being installed, you should probably invest
in a duct cleaning at the same time, because chances are
the new blower will be more powerful than the old one
and will stir up a lot of dust.
Professional duct cleaners tout such benefits as cleaner
indoor air, longer equipment life and lower energy costs.
Clean HVAC systems can also perform more efficiently,
which may decrease energy costs, and last longer, reducing
the need for costly replacement or repairs. Cleaning has
little effect on air quality, primarily because most indoor
dust drifts in from the outdoors. But it does get rid
of the stuff that mold and bacteria grow on, and that
means less of it gets airborne, a boon to allergy sufferers.
Q:
Should I change my indoor coil?
A: When replacing your air conditioner or heat pump, the
answer is most likely yes. The efficiency ratings that
are advertised for an air conditioner or heat pump are
based on the performance as part of a matched system.
If only the outdoor portion is changed, the efficiency
and savings could be less than that of a matched system.
Q:
What is covered in my warranty?
A: All products come with a written limited warranty on
parts. This warranty states that a replacement part will
be furnished for any part of the product that fails in
normal use and service during the applicable warranty
period specified in accordance with the warranty's terms.
We can review with you the warranty periods for the products
you select. We keep and maintain in our office most manufacture
warranties.
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